Thursday, Lebanon, 6.05 am, GMT

We are now on the bus to meet the sister of the assassinated former Prime Minister, Rafik Hariri.  Her name is Bahiya Hariri and she is an MP, head of education and very well respected.  We will then travel south to the worst bomb affected areas.

7.59am

The Deputy leader of Hezbollah, who we met today, was called Sheikh Naeem Qasim and yesterday we met the Hezbollah parliamentary group leader, Mohammed Raaed.  The General we met with yesterday was Michael Aoun.  He fled Lebanon 15 years ago but returned after the assassination of the former President Rafik Hariri on 14th February 2005.

On 14th March the biggest demo in the Arab world, 2 million, demanded Syria out of Lebanon.  It was a turning point in Lebanese history.  As we drive south out of Beirut we witness the specific bombing of over 10 bridges and the Jiee power plant, causing a huge oil spill that reached Turkey and Israel.

We are now forced onto an old back road as the highway has been destroyed.  Israel's precision bombing is evident.  We are now in Sidon.  Petrol stations and more bridges have been destroyed.  Just passed a food distribution point and Sidon football stadium.

The bombing that started on 12th July created one million refugees.  Homes and roads were bombed.  The hope was that people would not return, yet within hours of the ceasefire 90% returned to their villages and within a week 100%.  The Israeli intention of dividing the people via the war backfired.

By the way, during the meeting with General Aoun a surreal moment occurred when one of his armed bodyguards served us Lebanese coffee with his Smith and Wesson hanging from his holster.  The first time I have had coffee served by an armed makeshift waiter.  The reason Aoun is under armed protection is his declared alliance with Hezbollah despite his Christian background and base of support.  The CIA don’t like him.  Also it is pouring again today and on Tuesday we watched Celtic record a fantastic victory in the 'Celtic' bar in downtown Beirut.  As we cheered loudly the locals were bemused.  By verbal persuasion we convinced the bar manager to put our game on the big screen instead of the Man Utd game which was on as we arrived.

8.18am

We have just left the home of Bahiya Hariri and she spoke of the sorrow of losing her brother but the determination of all Lebanon to unite against Israel.  She said during the war that the South fled to the rest of Lebanon, 1 million refugees, but now all of Lebanon is now in solidarity with them in their rebuilding of homes and villages.

She pronounced the unbreakable unity of the Lebanese people now (Shia, Sunni and Christian) and the reality of Israel as their common enemy.  It was a very inspiring meeting with a woman of considerable wisdom and internal strength.  Just passed the largest Palestinian refugee camp in Lebanon, Ain il Helwi.

We are now driving past banana, orange and avocado fields that cannot be touched because of the presence of unexploded cluster bombs on the road to Tyr.  Now in Tyr and Hezbollah posters everywhere alongside bomb created craters.

10.53am

We have just met with the Hezbollah leader in South Lebanon, Sheik Nabil Qawok, one of Israel's most wanted.  He spoke of the historic resistance in the South and the desire of Hezbollah for a government of national unity and justice and rejection of the Bush and Rice evil empire.  God, Jesus and peace were discussed.  He asked if 'Jesus would have opposed a ceasefire' and said 'if he was here he would raise the rubble off the Lebanon children and throw the rocks at Israel.'  He spoke of the 11,600 violations of Lebanese territory since 2000 to 2006 and contrasted that with the kidnap of 2 soldiers.  He was given a Stop the War badge and said the Hezbollah new slogan shall be Stop the War.

We are now touring the heart of the resistance area in the South.  Much destruction and devastation all around.  Resistance field fighters are now travelling with us.

We are now visiting Qana, the scene of massacre in 96 when 102 Lebanese refugees hid in an UN building and then 2006 when 26 were killed, all women and children sheltering in a house.  Olive trees and groves are destroyed all around.  The Qana massacre took place on 30th July. Of 250 homes in the village of Siddeen, one hundred and thirty were completely destroyed and the rest badly damaged.  They were all civilians.  No fighters were present.  The petrol station and the supermarket were bombed.  Then we travel to another village, Kaafra.  Again homes and shops are destroyed.  People are angry and sad, but determined to resist.  As a result there is solid support of Hezbollah.  An Israeli Sikorski helicopter was brought down in Kaafra and five Israeli Defence force soldiers were killed.